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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
On a fitted bushing, it's best to take the barrel out of battery and push it forward when turning the bushing to keep it tight. Wear when turning the bushing will loosen the fit somewhat
I took it out of battery and removed the slide and it was still undo able which tells me it will probably be an accurate shooter
 

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:thumsup
 

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You are supposed to take them apart and clean them? Hmmmm, learn something new every day.

I still need the tool to remove the one on my DW.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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On a fitted bushing, it's best to take the barrel out of battery and push it forward when turning the bushing to keep it tight. Wear when turning the bushing will loosen the fit somewhat
Great advice!

I had to learn that when I got my first Baer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Yes it is good advice. I shoulda said I took the spring retaining cap off releasing the recoil spring tension, and removed the slide and pulled the spring backwards out of the slide. Still with no tension I couldn’t turn the bushing with my fingers and pull it out. Which is not a big deal, Saturday it gets its initiation.
 

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Yes it is good advice. I shoulda said I took the spring retaining cap off releasing the recoil spring tension, and removed the slide and pulled the spring backwards out of the slide. Still with no tension I couldn’t turn the bushing with my fingers and pull it out. Which is not a big deal, Saturday it gets its initiation.
Excellent, releasing the spring tension first is how it should be done.

I remove the slide from the frame with the bushing, recoil spring, plug and guide rod still in place, holding the recoil spring in place from below with my thumb. Then I remove the spring, guide rod and plug.

That leaves the barrel to be easily moved forward a half inch or so out of battery, so when the barrel bushing is rotated the wider muzzle end of the barrel is clear of the bushing. That not only makes removal easier, it also negates putting extra wear on the bushing/barrel interface.

If you want to make removal of the bushing from the slide easier, you could use some non-imbedding lapping compound on the outside (only!) of the bushing, and rotate it within the slide.

Personally, I would much prefer to leave it as is. I still have to use my barrel to “hammer” the bushing out of my Baer once it’s turned so the bushing lug is in the proper place for removal. It takes a plastic faced mallet to drive the bushing back into the end of the slide for reassembly, and I’ve had that pistol for over eight years now.

I’m looking forward to hearing how it shoots!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Wow
That is tight!!! Will post tomorrow hopefully I small tight group of 10
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
World Fictional character Games Art Springfield mail spec 1911. The target was 10 yards. It would improve greatly with some quality trigger parts, matched sear set. Some gritty take up before ignition. Rick would know what it needs. Ooops pic rotated again. Closest group to middle target (right) 50+ rounds 230g fmj. UMC.
 

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That’ll get the job done for sure.


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View attachment 63133 Springfield mail spec 1911. The target was 10 yards. It would improve greatly with some quality trigger parts, matched sear set. Some gritty take up before ignition. Rick would know what it needs. Ooops pic rotated again. Closest group to middle target (right) 50+ rounds 230g fmj. UMC.
This Harrison Custom ignition set, plus one of their Extreme Service hammer strut and strut pins, would work well for you.

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-120-b-extreme-service-ignition-set-featuring-dlc-coated-hammer

I didn't see a spur hammer like I put on Brownie’s pistol, so they may not make them anymore. You could contact John and ask him about that. If you include a phone number when you contact him through the website; he’ll call you himself.

I also used a true radius sear on Brownie’s gun, because he wanted “top of the line, all the way.” The TR sear costs @$18.00 more than the regular Extreme Service sear. I’ve used the regular sear on other 1911’s, including my own, so I know it would work great for you.

One more thing. Since you’re changing the sear and hammer; you may (or may not) have to re-fit the thumb safety, as it interacts with both as it functions.

One more thing number two. I initially put a Colt sear spring in Brownie’s pistol, wasn’t completely satisfied with the pull, and replaced that with a Cylinder and Slide “Light Pull Sear Spring for 1911,” part number CS0094.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks rick ill be looking into those parts.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Just ordered the parts from Ricks source for the Springfield 1911 defender
 

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This Harrison Custom ignition set, plus one of their Extreme Service hammer strut and strut pins, would work well for you.

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-120-b-extreme-service-ignition-set-featuring-dlc-coated-hammer

I didn't see a spur hammer like I put on Brownie’s pistol, so they may not make them anymore. You could contact John and ask him about that. If you include a phone number when you contact him through the website; he’ll call you himself.

I also used a true radius sear on Brownie’s gun, because he wanted “top of the line, all the way.” The TR sear costs @$18.00 more than the regular Extreme Service sear. I’ve used the regular sear on other 1911’s, including my own, so I know it would work great for you.

One more thing. Since you’re changing the sear and hammer; you may (or may not) have to re-fit the thumb safety, as it interacts with both as it functions.

One more thing number two. I initially put a Colt sear spring in Brownie’s pistol, wasn’t completely satisfied with the pull, and replaced that with a Cylinder and Slide “Light Pull Sear Spring for 1911,” part number CS0094.
And with those part installed, what looks like a mutt externally is actually a pure bred inside. I like the mutt look on mine.
 

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And with those part installed, what looks like a mutt externally is actually a pure bred inside. I like the mutt look on mine.
Me too. Yours is probably my favorite of all the 1911’s I’ve worked on. It’s a very cool concept that you came up with! :thumsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yes it will be interesting to see how it turns out. It appears mostly to be drop in parts. I did get their straight trigger to that needs to be fitted. That doesn’t seem to be too difficult. I’ve always liked the looks of the old pre customized version. Now it will like as you say like a junket with a souped up engine
 

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Yes it will be interesting to see how it turns out. It appears mostly to be drop in parts. I did get their straight trigger to that needs to be fitted. That doesn’t seem to be too difficult. I’ve always liked the looks of the old pre customized version. Now it will like as you say like a junket with a souped up engine
I replaced the trigger on Brownie’s gun too.

To fit the trigger you file/sand the top and bottom of the trigger pad so that it’ll fit into the trigger channel in the frame, and move smoothly and freely without any vertical movement. You want the trigger assembly (pad and bow) to be able to drop out of the frame under it’s own weight without needing to be pushed.

When I fit a trigger, I always stone the trigger pad and trigger bow channels inside the frame before I start fitting the trigger pad.

Sometimes, the installation of a new trigger will require that the grip safety be adjusted/modified where it’s leg interacts with the trigger bow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Rick can u tell me the size stone to use on the channel? And what do u mean by change/modify grip safety?
 

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Rick can u tell me the size stone to use on the channel? And what do u mean by change/modify grip safety?
The stones I use are of grits from 320-600, and are @1/8” X 1/2”X 5”.

The GS has a small “leg” on the right side that blocks the trigger bow from moving rearward. When the GS is depressed, that leg moves up (as the GS pivots around the thumb safety pin) so it no longer blocks the trigger bow. That’s why the trigger can’t be pulled without pushing in the grip safety.

Anyway, sometimes when a new trigger is installed, that leg needs to be adjusted to properly interact with the new trigger bow.

The most common adjustments are filing a LITTLE off the bottom front corner of the leg when more clearance is needed so that the trigger can be pulled when the GS is depressed, or peened a little to make it “grow” to properly block the trigger bow when the GS isn’t depressed.
 
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