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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What do you all use for cleaning your pistol?

I use CLP break free for my general cleaning on my shotguns and rifles but every once in a while, I strip everything squeaky clean with blue wonder gel.
 

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Red Dawg,
All I use is Hoppe's # 9. It may not be the best or the fastest cleaner but it has always work good on all my guns. I have heard that the CLP synthetic break free versus the regular CLP is better for polymer pistols. By the way I have an M&P .40 full size with approximately 3,000 rounds down the tube and as mentioned above all she sees is good ole Hoppe's #9.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Red Dawg,
All I use is Hoppe's # 9. It may not be the best or the fastest cleaner but it has always work good on all my guns. I have heard that the CLP synthetic break free versus the regular CLP is better for polymer pistols. By the way I have an M&P .40 full size with approximately 3,000 rounds down the tube and as mentioned above all she sees is good ole Hoppe's #9.
Cool. Have you bought a holster for it yet? I just got in the queu (sp?) for a Milt Sparks Versa Max 2. FLRon an FLSig both recommend it on this site. And I've seen others on other sites recommend it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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If you have a nickel plated gun, hoppes #9 will cause the nickel to flake. Something about it affecting the copper that is used in the nickeling process.
..... don't ask me how I know this.
RT
 

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I carry a stainless revolver. I usually spray it down with brake cleaner, swab the bore and chambers with Hoppe's then use Rem oil to make sure the wheel goes around OK.
 

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Hoppes #9 mostly...and I'll squirt some brake parts cleaner into areas I'm too lazy to detail strip.
 

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+1

Make sure the brake cleaner is non-chlorinated if you're using it on a gun with plastic parts.
Yeah, I already found out about that the hard way...on a synthetic stock. :doh
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bump to see what others are now using.
 

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Call me crazy if you like, but I use Kano Kroil for cleaning. For lubrication, I use Lucas Oil's Gun oil in mix with the Kroil on my handguns. For lube on the AR, it's Lucas since it's advertised as not having an odor.

Only place I can get the Lucas Oil gun oil is at a heavy duty parts warehouse back home in AL. Some of ya'll in the panhandle may have heard of them. Covington Heavy Duty Parts. I picked up 2 more bottles of it when I was home in Jan.


Also, on a side note, be sure you can put up w/ the smell of pine sol because the Kroil smells just like it.

Kev
 

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I got a trick for all of us poly pistol users. Get a can of brake cleaner from your local auto parts store.
MAKE SURE its NON CHLORINATED!
It will strip out all the gunk and dry up nice with no residue. Then it ready to oil/grease your pistol.

Viola!
:drinks
 

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tried the Break free but din't like it so I went back to the Hoppes #9 for cleaning and either Miltec or Rig grease if the gun is going to be stored for a little while.

which reminds me I need to take a few out and run some brass through them.
 

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i bought a gallon of MPro7 years ago and have been using that. I cleans very well is non-toxic and easy on the hands, no odor. HOWEVER........ i broke down the slide of one of my Steyr 9's and was agast at the site of the striker. MP7 is water based and the chromed striker was somewhat tarnished or had some corrosion that i didnt expect. I thought i had broken this pistol down previously and cant imagine i havent, but this looked pretty bad. Never had a hiccup with it but i think i'll be going to some other cleaner for quick cleanups in the future.
........been using the brake cleaner for years outside the garage only....nasty stuff and imo pretty toxic.......i use synthetic "snake oil" for lube on pistols for the most part or MilTec, bearing grease for AR's.
 

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On my Duracoated guns, I use hot soapy distilled water to "wash" them with, followed by regular distilled water to rinse. Blast with compressed air to dry, then WD-40 to remove any traces of moisture, and blast with compressed air again. Rem-Oil to lubricate. CLP based lubricants tend to eventually work themselves underneath my Duracoat/ceramic/other finishes and affect the bond eventually.

On non-duracoated guns, I hit the parts with my scrub brush and kerosene to clean, blast the loose junk out with brake cleaner, dry, and re-oil using CLP (doesn't have to be Break-Free, as long as its a synthetic LP).
 

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Ryan,

Just as a heads up, even compressed air from an aircompressor has minute amounts of water vapor, so be sure to drain the tank.

At least you're using it to dry then oiling.

Kev
 

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I use electronic blaster from a can. The air compressor is reserved for automotive work. :) Thanks for the heads up though, for those who may not have known can now see this.
 
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