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I use mil spec CLP. First time for detail clean, non carbonated brake cleaner, followed by CLP. I use brass bore brushes, patches and wipes. Also use a solvent to remove copper fowling after heavy use.

Usedbto use Frog lube but got too gummy and sticky.
 

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Non chlorinated break clean, a toothbrush, bore snake and presently lubed with Lucas gun oil [ replaced the gunslick I'd used for 20 odd years.

Glock cleaned in 5-7 minutes, 1911 cleaned in 10, nothing over 10 minutes though
 

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For revolvers, cleanzoil and brake cleaner
For guns that can be disassembled, cleanzoil, brakecleaner, and usually hot soapy water.
 
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Rubbing alcohol with q-tips, bore snake, Ballistol. Like Brownie said, Glock in 5-7 minutes. Same for Sig P365s.
 
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Different at different times Gunscrubber, break free, hoppes. I go through a lot of solutions and cleaning equipment.
 

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Non chlorinated break clean, a toothbrush, bore snake and presently lubed with Lucas gun oil [ replaced the gunslick I'd used for 20 odd years.

Glock cleaned in 5-7 minutes, 1911 cleaned in 10, nothing over 10 minutes though
Why did you quit gunslick?
 

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Hoppe's #9, CLP and brake parts cleaner for cleaning, and Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube for lubrication; it was recommended to me by a gunsmith who described it as "slicker than snot on a doorknob." :LOL:
 

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Shotties: #9 & Remoil, most rifles: #9 & Remoil, SS .300 winmag Strike Hold & Lucas, EDC’s: Strike Hold & Lucas & a touch of Super Lube on rails, 1911: a little more Strike Hold & Lucas & Super Lube. Modern ones a little dryer, especially the Glocks, old ones a little wetter. Hunters are cleaned well after every use & left wet, then quick cleaned again & dried up before each use. EDC’s rubbed down & oiled way more in summer months & Q-Tips are my friend also!
 
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