[Earl 007]

Thank you Rick that really help's me out. Someone I asked about it was BS-ing me.

 

[Rick McC.]

You’re welcome Sir.

 

[bttbbob]

Earl, I’ve never heard anything bad about them. They make a very high quality 1911.

I would kind of put the hierarchy of 1911s as Colt, Dan Wesson, Les Baer, then Ed Brown, Wilson, Guncrafter with the last three being almost a tie. If money is tight, the new Dan Wesson’s are very impressive.

I would put Nighthawk as number 1. Wilson Combat as number 2, Ed Brown as number 3, Les Baer as number 4 and last but not least Colt especially their custom shop guns as number 5 in 1911 hierarchy.

 

[bttbbob]

Actually, you can probably get a Baer from CJ (Crazy John) at 1911heaven with no wait, and cheaper than ordering one from Baer.

I bought my Custom Carry Comanche from CJ with no wait, as he always has quite a few Baers in stock, and free second day air delivery to my LGS.

My Baer was very tightly fitted (due to the hard fit barrel), but functioned flawlessly right out of the box. Baer does recommend a “break in” period of 500 rounds, but that’s before you give it a good cleaning, not so it’ll run reliably. You just oil the slide and frame rails every 100 rounds or so. That makes a nice slurry with the powder fouling, and gives the bearing surfaces a little burnishing.

I’ve had it for over 11 years now, and it still takes a bushing wrench to turn the bushing when out of battery (which is the best and proper way to turn the barrel bushing on a tightly fit 1911). I,then use the barrel itself to drive the bushing out of the front of the slide.

Mine’s been carried and shot a lot, and while it does show some honest wear, none of the bluing has ”purpled” yet. Purpling actually has more to do with the metallurgy of the steel used than the bluing salts used. I’ve seen purpling on old Colt grip safeties, and even on some old Pythons. If it ever happens on any of my guns; it’ll be of no consequence to me.

Baer does offer a lot of gun for the money. I have some Wilsons that are prettier and cost a good bit more (2 to 3 times as much), but they’re no “better,” or as accurate, as my Baer. It’s the favorite of all my 1911s, too. I don't have a lot, but too many for me to keep track of. I know I have at least 11, but it‘s probably 12, or maybe 13.

View attachment 70282

Can I make one suggestion? Not being an ass, but don’t oil slide rails on 1911’s or Browning Hipowers. Where metal on metal has friction use high temp grease. Oil is for metal surfaces.

 

[Shark1007]

Bob, that’s a reasonable ranking.

I Froglube some pistols and on many 1911’s I use Lubriplate SFL-0 which is a great grease. A 15 oz tub lasts forever. If it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it.

 

[Rick McC.]

The reason that Baer recommends oil for the first 500 rounds without cleaning is to make a slurry of the oil and fouling to burnish all the mating surfaces. Grease is not a suitable lubricant for that purpose. Many recommend the use of grease for lubing slides and frames, but in this particular instance it’s not initially the best choice.

Though I have no use for the brand based on personal experience; kimber specifically advises that grease not be used for lubricating their 1911s due to their ”tight tolerances.” A Kimber is as loose as a goose with diarrhea compared to a Baer.

 

[Earl 007]

Thank you Bob for your advice, I always use synthetic gun grease on slides and Rem-oil on the rest. I was not sure on if I should lube the slide on the first time out now that is answered. I have not made the cross over to frog lube I'm still a caveman at heart.

 

[Rick McC.]

Thank you Bob for your advice, I always use synthetic gun grease on slides and Rem-oil on the rest. I was not sure on if I should lube the slide on the first time out now that is answered. I have not made the cross over to frog lube I'm still a caveman at heart.

Don’t initially use grease on your Baer for the reasons I note above.

Bob’s and Shark‘s advice on the use of grease (except for that frog lube crap) is a generally accepted practice. That said; it isn't the best choice for initial use on a Baer 1911.

When you receive your Baer and first try to rack the slide; you’ll understand. It’s easier to do if you remove the empty mag and thumb cock the hammer first.

 

[Earl 007]

I will go with Rem-oil for the first 500 rounds. I'm going to keep a small notebook in my gun bag to keep the round count on the Les Baer and my brand new Howa M1500 for the first time so I will know exactly how many rounds are fired.

 

[bttbbob]

Bob, that’s a reasonable ranking.

I Froglube some pistols and on many 1911’s I use Lubriplate SFL-0 which is a great grease. A 15 oz tub lasts forever. If it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it.

Bingo. Metal on metal gets grease. Just metal surface? Gets oil.

 

[bttbbob]

Keep in mind. Grease is nothing but oil with a higher viscosity. No matter how you supplant it.
No matter the tolerances we are talking about. Oil does not stick, it has a lower viscosity and will drain away from target points and areas. Grease on the other hand, is thickened oil and can hold contaminates longer.
No matter what a manufacturer tells me. Historically. 45 yrs experience tells me if it is metal on metal. Grease is the answer. Oil does not provide the thickness and ability to stay where it is needed. Oil allows wear and tear. Grease doesn’t with proper usage. Just my .02

 

[Shark1007]

Agree, I think of grease as oil infused in soap. It’s big advantages it stays put.

 

[Earl 007]

I thought an update was due it was to be delivered today, my least favorite carrier UPS says the 1911 was delayed due to weather, no new delivery date or location. It has been in route for 7 days, I asked for the tracking number from CJ he said I could not have it for security reasons. I guess he thinks I might steal it even though I have already paid for it, this over my head from a reasoning stand point. Some pictures and range report some day.

 

[BeerHunter]

I thought an update was due it was to be delivered today, my least favorite carrier UPS says the 1911 was delayed due to weather, no new delivery date or location. It has been in route for 7 days, I asked for the tracking number from CJ he said I could not have it for security reasons. I guess he thinks I might steal it even though I have already paid for it, this over my head from a reasoning stand point. Some pictures and range report some day.

 

[Rick McC.]

I thought an update was due it was to be delivered today, my least favorite carrier UPS says the 1911 was delayed due to weather, no new delivery date or location. It has been in route for 7 days, I asked for the tracking number from CJ he said I could not have it for security reasons. I guess he thinks I might steal it even though I have already paid for it, this over my head from a reasoning stand point. Some pictures and range report some day.

I know it’s worrisome, but that’s really what's going on.

My new Wilson was shipped out on 2/9 UPS second day air. (CJ ships out his stuff second day air.) My second day air shipment stayed in Louisville, KY for several days, due to the terrible weather they were having up north, and I got it on Monday 2/15.

So; you will get it!

 

[Caleb]

Why no tracking number? You paid for the damn thing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Earl 007]

I know it is just a policy, I'm not stressing out, it just seems that every time UPS is involved they screw it up. I live 1 1/2 miles from their terminal and try not to use them. I'm already thinking about a officer's model or Stinger.

 

[Earl 007]

Here is the last of the adventure it turns out that is was not lost it was in the safe at the gun store the whole time it arrived on time, so I go to pick it up and their internet was down for 1/2 of the day. I tried to take down the gun and it was so tight I could not. I oiled it the best I could and went to the range and put 80 rounds through it the target was the first 16 rounds it shot great and it is the tightest gun I have ever owned.The target was 30 feet.

 

[Earl 007]

 

[BeerHunter]

Beautiful and nice chootin'!