I've heard mixed things about this gun. A friend of mine had one and it jammed now and then. Some people will say that might be due to "limp wristing" but I've also seen comments on other forums about other issues. Check out this tread. http://www.handgunforum.net/archive/index.php?t-8081.html
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Bersa - PPK/S
I owned a Walther PPK/S .380 and sold it because it would NOT feed hollow points. The weapon was designed in 1929 and hollow points were not on the radar back then.
I have also owned 2 Bersa .380s and sold them both because of jams. The weapon is perfect for concealed carry because of its size and weight - the jamming lessened my confidence in it as a carry weapon and the ammo is too expensive just for target practice.
Field strip the weapon and you will find a seam where the feed ramp (of the frame) joins the barrel ramp. When I would get a jam, the round would hang up in the ramp seam (leaving a mark) on the bullet nose and then go straight into the top of the receiver. You would think that "fluffing and buffing" would solve this problem, but the metal composition of the ramp is such that too much buffing tends to break down the metal to where it flakes off.
If you are in a gunshop looking at a Bersa .380, ask the proprietor to field strip it for you and use your fingernail to see if the feed ramp seam is significant enough to catch a round and cause a jam,
I like this weapon, BUT ....
I owned a Walther PPK/S .380 and sold it because it would NOT feed hollow points. The weapon was designed in 1929 and hollow points were not on the radar back then.
I have also owned 2 Bersa .380s and sold them both because of jams. The weapon is perfect for concealed carry because of its size and weight - the jamming lessened my confidence in it as a carry weapon and the ammo is too expensive just for target practice.
Field strip the weapon and you will find a seam where the feed ramp (of the frame) joins the barrel ramp. When I would get a jam, the round would hang up in the ramp seam (leaving a mark) on the bullet nose and then go straight into the top of the receiver. You would think that "fluffing and buffing" would solve this problem, but the metal composition of the ramp is such that too much buffing tends to break down the metal to where it flakes off.
If you are in a gunshop looking at a Bersa .380, ask the proprietor to field strip it for you and use your fingernail to see if the feed ramp seam is significant enough to catch a round and cause a jam,
I like this weapon, BUT ....
My new Bersa
I feel compelled to report how nice my new Bersa Thunder .380 Satin Nickel is.
The finish looks very high quality.
I have read that they have improved the nickel finishing method.
This pistol fire test is dated Dec 10, 2008
So this is right off production line and spent virtually no time on dealer’s shelf.
Unlike some post I have read the delivery condition was extremely clean- little signs of the packing oil mentioned by others even internally including when magazine was taken apart. Dealer may have cleaned up since it was taken to a gun show, I am going to ask.
Here is a photo http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3285/3157598421_fb87341ebc_o.jpg
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I feel compelled to report how nice my new Bersa Thunder .380 Satin Nickel is.
The finish looks very high quality.
I have read that they have improved the nickel finishing method.
This pistol fire test is dated Dec 10, 2008
So this is right off production line and spent virtually no time on dealer’s shelf.
Unlike some post I have read the delivery condition was extremely clean- little signs of the packing oil mentioned by others even internally including when magazine was taken apart. Dealer may have cleaned up since it was taken to a gun show, I am going to ask.
Here is a photo http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3285/3157598421_fb87341ebc_o.jpg
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